The Routeburn is one of New Zealand’s classic walks. You can never tell what the weather will do, but that’s all part of the experience. Be prepared for anything: It’s very hard to predict how fast-moving weather systems zooming in from the Tasman and hitting Fiordland will behave. Scan the forecasts, sure, but follow that good old Boy Scout maxim and, “Be prepared”.

Over three days we experienced scorching sunshine and peeled back to T-shirts and shorts; broke out full waterproof gear as we sidled round a mountain into the face of driving rain and wind; and pulled on woolly hats as snow began to fall.

We did not find our guided trip overly exhausting or gruelling, but it does require a reasonable standard of fitness, and training beforehand – long walks in your area will pay off.

There are two main options: Go guided (which costs more), or organize it yourself. We’ve done lots of tramping with heavy packs in the past, but this time we went guided.
You don’t have to carry your own food and sleeping bags, just a light pack with the right gear.

The guides know their stuff, and that makes a difference. Conditions can get hairy very fast in the mountains and we remained totally confident they would keep us safe and get us through. Because of heavy snowfall, they called in a helicopter to get us over the top because of avalanche danger. It was inlcluded in the price.

Our guides, Scott, Brad, and Masa, gave us detailed descriptions of the flora and fauna, including bird life, sundew plants that trap insects, wildflowers, mountain beech, and mosses. They all stayed jovial and cheery throughout. We reckoned they got their energy from a combination of youthful exuberance and large quantities of chocolate! We regret we didn’t follow their example and strip off and plunge into an icy river or waterfall to cool off – maybe next time!

Hard bunks, long drops, and icy rooms may be part of the rustic charm of Kiwi tramping huts, but as the years go by, we must confess to a growing yearning for civilization and
comfort. Lake Mackenzie and Routeburn Falls lodges offer soft beds and duvets and are
warm and cozy. Hot showers are heavenly. Beer and wine are health tonics. Food is scrummy, too. After dinner we took part in the time-honored pancake-catching competition.

You will meet a mixed bunch of fellow walkers. Our group included five Aussies (one ex-pat Kiwi, one ex-pat South African); two from Germany (originally from the Netherlands and the US); one from Ireland; and two Kiwis – us.

Here’s some tips to get the best out of the experience:

* Get fit! Go hiking and practise.

* Keep your pack as light as possible, down to 7kg (15lb) or less.

* Take the best gear. Goretex waterproof jackets withstand wind and rain. My good old Swanndri bushshirt kept out the cold. Our merino tops stayed remarkably comfortable and didn’t get sweaty. Merino beats synthetics, no question. I’d have preferred better gloves and waterproof trousers. You also need good boots.

Don’t worry if you are unsure on gear: Ultimate Hikes provides an excellent selection of packs, pack covers, and rain jackets and will help with any other inquiries.

* The Routeburn Track guided option takes three days and two nights. Costs for the 2011/2012 season are $NZ1,125 for adults for the low season (November 1 to 30 and April 1 to 18 approx.) and $1,270 for the high season (December to March). See www.ultimatehikes.co.nz.