Maruia Springs - Japanese-style mountain thermal resort

(The Press, 2008)

Maruia Springs is a secluded thermal resort on the Lewis Pass route from the east to the west coasts of the South Island, about two and a half hours drive north west of Christchurch.

The resort may be less well known than its glitzier North Island counterparts, but its isolation is part of its charm. As you sit in natural hot pools surrounded by the bush and mountains of the Southern Alps, you can feel stress and care simply melt away.

In midwinter, the pools are often surrounded by snow. You feel in harmony with nature, and leave refreshed, relaxed and recharged.

Although Maruia (which means "sheltered valley") Springs is very much a Kiwi experience, it also offers a very special Japanese style of relaxation. Owners Takako Ogino and Akira Matsushita have transformed Maruia Springs into a unique spa resort.

Takako grew up in Akakura Spa, in Niigita Prefecture, on Japan's west coast, where her father owned thermal resorts. Business partner Akira Matsushita grew up in Yokohama, near Tokyo.

When Akira arrived in New Zealand 21 years ago, he worked for a helicopter company as a tour guide and became the first Japanese commercial helicopter pilot in New Zealand.

He has also conducted motorcycle tours and has a passion for classic cars and Japanese noodles. He was enchanted by Maruia Springs and felt enchanted by it.

Akira encouraged Takako's father, Masao Ogino, to buy Maruia Springs in 1991. Takako's brother began as manager, but sadly died only a few years later, and Takako - who had studied hotel management in Japan - persuaded her father she should take on the role.

As well as being a successful businesswoman, Takako is also an independent personality who enjoys arriving at Maruia Springs on her on her 1,450cc Harley-Davidson.

Since the early 1990s, Akira and Takako - together with another Christchurch business partner Glen Stapley - have totally revitalized Maruia Springs.

Although thermal springs had been discovered by early European settlers, the pools remained undeveloped. In the 1980s, a simple rectangular pool was all there was.

Now, natural pools have been carved out, surrounded by massive river boulders. They are surrounded by New Zealand native plants and a few Japanese maples.

New accommodation units were built, along with a Japanese bathhouse - segregated for men and women - private spas, and a Japanese restaurant, complete with an east-west bridge.

The resort has its own mini hydroelectric power station. The redevelopment cost over $3 million, three times the figure budgeted for.

Instead of focusing on attracting Japanese tourists, Akira and Takako elected to provide New Zealanders with a touch of Japanese culture. It still retains a Kiwi flavour, however. For example, you can still buy Kiwi beer and pub-style food. Prices remain affordable for families, and are not targeted exclusively at wealthy business travellers.

"We're very lucky, because we chose this country," says Akira. I have travelled in many countries, and I think this country is the best. The attitude and relationship is probably better than any other country."

The pair wanted to bring the therapeutic and healthy benefits of the "Onsen", the the Japanese word for thermal springs, to New Zealand.

They wanted to create a feeling of "Omotenashi", a warm and welcoming spirit.

In Japan, there are about 2,500 thermal places and in the vicinity of 20,000 spa resorts, says Akira. Japanese have appreciated their healthy restorative properties for centuries. The sulphuric content of the springs is said to be beneficial for all sorts of physical ailments, especially joint and muscle pain and internal illnesses. They are a natural form of detoxification, purging away the toxins accumulated through unhealthy 21st century urban lifestyles.

More than that, Onsen is also beneficial for mind and the spirit, restoring a sense of calm and balance - so vital for coping in today's hectic and stressful work environment.

Thermal water is heated deep within the Earth, as far down as two kilometers. Originally it falls as rain, seeps down through cracks in the rocks, and then rises to the surface. At Maruia Springs, the rainwater fell 100 years ago and stayed underground being heated for 50 years.

Temperature varies, but mostly remains at a cosy 40C. The colour varies, too, from crystal clear to milky or almost black, as a result of natural variation in rainfall and temperature.

Even on cold nights, it is an experience to treasure, sitting back in the hot pool and gazing up at the sparkling clear Southern Cross in a jet-black sky, so far away from the bright city lights.

After a soak in the hot pools, you can try a warm footbath, Ashi-yu - heaven for trampers who have just completed the nearby St James Walkway, or a hike to the tops. Ashi-Yu originated in Japan, where 300 years ago the pools provided relief for travellers after a long walk.

Or you can try a water massage - brilliant for those suffering from back pain. This is called Utase-yu. According to the instructions, "… simply breathe deeply allowing fresh mountain air to fill your lungs whilst you relax and enjoy the steady pitter-patter of water droplets drumming against your shoulders and back, soothing muscles and removing any stiffness or pain you may have."

You can also indulge in the ultimate massage at the Jono-Be relaxation room. Jono-Be means "sit back, stretch and enjoy total relaxation".

After a soak in the hot springs, you'll be ready to try a specialized Oriental/European method of massage and reflexology.

Chef, Peter Vernon, has a background in Mediterranean cuisine. Last year, he visited Takako's father's hotel in Japan to study Japanese cuisine. Now he creates a mixture of Japanese and European cuisine, which is popular with guests.

Maruia's specialty is the "Nabe" (Japanese pot dish). The all-fresh ingredients are cooked in the broth in the pot on the table. "It's less fatty and so healthy and using a long chop sticks to 'cook yourself' is fun too," says Akira.

Restorative health plays an important role. Maruia Springs has is no cell phone coverage, no insistent ringing phones, email, or business pressure.

"A chemical-free hot springs, plus massage, plus healthy food and a bask in the beech forest, having 100 per cent pure air with negative ions are the elements for our business, says Akira.

Takao adds: "I wanted to create a total health place, a nature reserve with native trees and hot springs that's good for the health - with a touch of Japan."

There is only one drawback: After your stay you will probably feel reluctant to return to work, and will want to plan your return visit straightaway!

Maruia Springs is offering an Indulgence Package for two, from $349. It includes accommodation, a Japanese or European dinner, massage, private spa entry, access to all thermal pools, breakfast and a late checkout.

Information: www.maruiasprings.co.nz, or call (03) 523-8840.

[ Return to Feature Articles ]